tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5837660608809488753.post3364535694864054316..comments2024-03-28T20:53:49.167-04:00Comments on The Adventures of Roberta X: Shelves, InterruptedRoberta Xhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09956807794520627885noreply@blogger.comBlogger5125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5837660608809488753.post-12672969920319208252020-06-13T20:30:17.860-04:002020-06-13T20:30:17.860-04:00One never seems to have too many clamps!
I like th...One never seems to have too many clamps!<br />I like the shoe storage idea.waepnedmannhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07114411043832799988noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5837660608809488753.post-90894344414108062802020-06-12T21:16:09.106-04:002020-06-12T21:16:09.106-04:00I build a toe-kick into most shelves, as high as t...I build a toe-kick into most shelves, as high as the baseboard, since the bottom shelf has to clear it anyway. The inset vertical element serves as one of the stabilizing pieces that keeps the shelves square. (The other one is at the top, usually set at the back.) The shelves and cross-pieces all fit into grooves routed into the sides. The baseboards at Roseholme Cottage are 7" tall, or just a little less. I cut clearance for the baseboards in the sides.<br /><br /> I have built a lot of shelves and this method has given me good results. I use many clamps during assembly and if I have been careful with cutting and routing, it all gets pulled pretty square, even using inexpensive pine boards (or salvaged packing-crate wood).<br /><br /> For these shelves, the space under the bottom shelf will serve as a place for shoes, so the stabilizer goes at the back, just in from the baseboard clearance cut. We'll see how it works.Roberta Xhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09956807794520627885noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5837660608809488753.post-60543047113540636792020-06-12T20:28:12.158-04:002020-06-12T20:28:12.158-04:00Might I suggest a toe-kick base for your shelf uni...Might I suggest a toe-kick base for your shelf unit?<br />Basically it is 3-4 inch high detached platform that the shelf unit rests on.<br />Usually you recess it back an inch or three such that the shelf unit overhangs a bit.<br />If you make it a smidge (a precise measurement used by cabinet makers) taller than your baseboards the shelf unit can be pushed back so that it fits against the wall and there will be a minimal gap between the wall and the sides of the shelf unit.<br />To install, you put the shelf unit in place , raise it up, and slide the toe-kick base under the unit.<br />Let the shelf unit down on the base, attach the unit to the wall, and reward yourself by backing off and spending some admire time looking at your completed project (adult beverage is optional, but recommended). waepnedmannhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07114411043832799988noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5837660608809488753.post-21244891517620695262020-06-10T12:56:49.048-04:002020-06-10T12:56:49.048-04:00As you say the actual cutting is the smallest part...As you say the actual cutting is the smallest part of the overall job. Measure twice (or more)<br />Cut once<br />stuartlnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5837660608809488753.post-38968353765801350562020-06-10T11:29:22.863-04:002020-06-10T11:29:22.863-04:00I just has a light-bulb go off over my head with t...I just has a light-bulb go off over my head with the "trim the corners" bit.<br /><br />We have two tall bookcases that came from my spouse's family home, that have a <i>giant</i> 45° notch at the <i>base</i>, leaving a 'foot' of about 3 inches at the front of the upright. <br /><br />For us this has meant that they sit flush with the wall even with our victorian built-up baseboards, and the COG is always behind the support so they aren't going to tip forward.<br /><br />In place, the notch at the back bottom of the upright planks is not really noticeable, especially as there is often something else sitting next to it.<br /><br />But it just occurred to me that this would allow tilting the bookcase up into place in rooms that were barely taller than the bookcase. In doing it myself, I would think "ceiling gets in the way, make a notch at the top to clear". But if the weight of the assembled bookcase is low enough for two people to lift easily, it is equivalent to "the floor is too high, make a notch there to clear". <br /><br />It is odd that I never thought of this before, because:<br /><br />A) I've done my share of floor-to-ceiling bookcases where I did the final assembly such that they could be assembled upright in place, as there would be no tipping them up. and<br /><br />B) I'm looking right now at a bookcase that is only present in the room because our farmer-built mid-19th-century house has sagging floors. When my wife said she wanted that bookcase in the dining room, I measured the diagonal and then found the spot in the room where it could be placed upright before shoving it over against the wall at the "short" end of the room where the floor is higher.Douglas2noreply@blogger.com