So, the Mayor of NYC asked New Yorkers to set their thermostats no lower than 78° through these hot days -- and the Federal Department of Energy, which has given the generic version of the same advice on their website for a long time, took those pages down.
Elsewhere, conservative politicians grumbled about "socialism."
Of course, the Mayor of New York has no authority over people's thermostats. Nor does he run that city's electric utility which, like most of 'em, struggles to maintain adequate infrastructure. Power companies can usually keep up, but extreme weather events -- here's looking at you, Texas -- stress the grid, and it doesn't make any difference what flavor the local politicians are. You can only draw X much current before it's too much, at which point the system breaks at the weakest points. Power companies stock parts and size staff for the normal failure rate and a little more when possible, but there's a limit.
Nature has a way of testing limits. Nature doesn't take politics in to account.
There's nothing especially political about managing your air conditioning (or heating), either. People who are careful about money have been doing so for as long as fuel has had a cost, which is forever (the cost of cutting your own firewood is pretty high, just not in dollars). The poor insulation and undersized cooling here at Roseholme Cottage means we ran for years at 75° in the summer* and 65° in the winter, though I have cheated up to three degrees on the winter setting as I have gotten older. The main positive effect of air conditioning is to lower the humidity and move the air, and if you get too far off the outside air temperature, you can start to have problems -- the A-coil may freeze up, the motors for the fan and compressor in the outdoor unit could overheat, and so on. And boy, will your electric bills soar. (You can also have personal problems -- going from 70° or 68° dry air into a 95° wall of wet air is physically stressful.)
I keep the fan running in our HVAC system nearly all the time. In summer, I add a small floor fan in the dining room/library to blow are from the floor register up, because the return intake is in that room, and there's no point to letting it suck low level cold air right back in. In the office and living room, simple home-made extensions sit on to of the registers, and discharge cold air about four feet above floor level. A similar trick in my bedroom makes use of existing shelves to channel the air up, and in the very worst weather, a clip-on fan pushes cool (or heated) air towards my bed.
Some of those tricks are compensating for the 1990s upgrades to the 1920s system design, which left floor registers near room doors instead of at the farthest corner on an outside wall. In 1920, a big coal furnace with "gravity" thermosiphon air circulation would have kept the basement almost too warm for comfort in the winter, with warm air flowing up the outside walls to slit vents under the eaves (and up a few inside walls to the attic as well). Forced-air climate control doesn't work that way, and the original furnace replacement was done when energy was cheap and labor to relocate registers and run all-new ductwork wasn't. (In winter, I also run an oil-filled electric heater in the basement whenever I'm home and awake; but plug-in electric heat isn't something to turn on and ignore, and it'll never do the same job as the the smelly, sooty old coal furnace did.)
Big-city downtowns are full of this kind of relic infrastructure, electric wiring that was adequate in 1920, 1930, cooling that relied on open transoms, windows and getting outside -- and people expiring from the heat. You can stick a modern split-system air conditioner just about anywhere, but running big enough wires from the pole to the outlet to actually power it is another story. There might not even be enough room in the conduits to do that in an old apartment building, and copper is costly. And how big is the stepdown transformer on the pole or in a manhole vault? How fat are the wires that feed it?
There are tricks. The 110-Volt wall-socket juice my then very modern home had in 1924 is now 125 V most places in the U.S., because they have turned up the voltage on the high-voltage distribution side. You see, the power available through a wire is the voltage multiplied by the current -- the current it limited by the "ampacity" of the wire, which is proportional to how big it is. Big wires can carry more current. Voltage limits rely on how good the insulators are -- and they have always been far better than they had to be. Ceramic and glass are relatively cheap, power-line insulators aren't all that tricky to replace when they fail (if you happen to be a power company lineman -- don't try it on your own!). So Power & Light turns up the voltage and hey, presto, they can supply 15 or 20 percent more power!
That's something, but in a bad heat wave, it's not enough. It helps run your TV and computer and automatic shiatsu massager and super-slice-o-matic self-cleaning air fryer with vacuum cleaner attachment on a system designed to run a handful of light bulbs and a coffeepot, but when you and everyone else in Manhattan, or Washington D.C., or Pigsley's Corner turns on the air-conditioning and sets it to "Arctic," something will pop. Maybe your breaker. Maybe the pole fuse or transformer that feeds your house, and the Smith's, Jones's, Brown's and Doe's apartment house and the bungalow of old Ms X next door. Maybe it trips a disconnector that keeps cycling, or a transformer's regulating tap-setter at a substation that gets hung up, and a whole neighborhood flickers, goes dark or browns out. Multiply by a hundred, a thousand-- A power company crew can keep ahead of a few outages, clearing them in mere hours (hours, at 95°), but there is no politics on this planet that will make skilled electrical workers magically appear from the air, along with fuse wire, replacement transformers, and all of the massive, slow-to-replace stuff that fills up a substation.
There's also no politics that has ever managed to overbuild power grids (etc.) to always hold up to extreme events. Oh, Ukraine has had a little advantage from hardened Cold War substations, but only if you happened to live in area Soviet planners had deemed critical, and it was never as capacious as its Western counterpart. Central planning won't save you -- and neither will capitalism. If you want your power company to turn a profit, you figure out how to price it in such a way that people can afford it; you build it for the routine loads you have, and you count on having enough staff to keep it going. Localized trouble, you hire outside help. But a heat wave isn't like a tornado; it doesn't affect just a few townships at a time.
The DOE's former advice pages and the lefty-Democrat Mayor of New York City were telling people the same thing because that's how you deal with this intersection of physics, economics and weather, period. It doesn't matter who you are or, which party or person you voted for or how you think things ought to be done. We have the power grids we have. We have the outdoor temperature and humidity we have. City cliff-dwellers in particular aren't going to be installing rooftop solar, home generators or water wheels, and the choice is to turn up the 'stat a few notches now or sweat like pigs by and by, and shovel out the vulnerable dead afterward.
Freaking out because your side gave the same advice as the other side for coping with this is simply bullshit, practiced by people who are insanely out of touch with what it's like to live a normal life on an average income.
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* That's not entirely accurate. I chase 15° to 20° below ambient in summer and will settle for 10° on the worst days, guided by condensation on the older windows, state of the A-coil (once it has iced up, you're done until the ice melts), and experience.
Update
1 year ago
