Two and a half days of scraping later....
More aggressive methods have given way to heating and scraping: it turns out that takes less leverage and when work switched to a ladder -- you get the picture.
Given the darkness of the old wood (which may be hard pine; hard enough to last nearly 90 years, at least), the first coat will be White Primer Of Overwhelming Force (plus I misplaced my sample chips; we're at that awkward stage, a Valspar color matched in Behr paint*). My painter's got a vacation next week, so the deal is, "Leave no bare wood."
This should establish a nice blank canvas to try out the fancy housepaint in an inconspicuous spot, plus do some prep and small work like screen frames -- I've got at least one screen (wooden frame) that wants redone anyway.
The Indy Hamfest is this Saturday! So that's a day to let the paint dry before I go tryin' anything.
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* Which means that no matter how good modern paint-tinting has become, I'll be wanting to get a big order done up in one go, and will be picking up one or two five-gallon mixing cans; you pour all the one-gallon cans together and then even if the Big Magical Machine had a valve stutter or whatever, the color will be consistent).
BUILDING A 1:1 BALUN
4 years ago
3 comments:
hint: Have primer tinted to match the tone of the final coat.
Gives a better color and makes it's less obvious if you miss a spot. ;-)
Eck!
If there are any knots in that pine-and what's pine without knots-have a careful look at the knots after the primer has dried a few days.
Depending on species, there can be a surprising amount of sap left even in pine which has been cut many years.
If so, it can bleed through / discolour the primer-so touch up those spots with another primer coat before the real painting begins.
The lighter the top coat colour will be, the more noticeable any seepage will be.
You can guess how I learned this (and messed up the side of a house).
We'll see how it holds up -- he did a thinnish spray of Killz2 primer over most of the wall.
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