I made peposo for dinner last night, and it was fantastic!
Put too much salt on the meat at the start, and had to dilute the broth at the end. Next time, I'll do better. But what even is peposo, and why is it a big deal?
Well, it's kind of connected to one of the most famous domes in the world, Filippo Brunelleschi's vast brick dome on Florence Cathedral, a job he inherited with no blueprints or guidance from the man who'd spent most of his life designing and managing the construction of the rest of the building. The style didn't provide sufficient support for a masonry dome -- and he chose something slightly lighter but even less strong for the job! It's one of the first examples of an engineered structure, with hidden tension elements and an internal design that keeps the whole thing hanging together by its own weight, while guiding stresses to supports and pitting force against force to minimize the worst.
And here's the thing: brickwork is slow. If you've ever had the pleasure of watching professional brickmasons at work, you know that when the whistle blows, they're a blur of motion, each step blending into the next, mortar applied, bricks laid, everything squared and trimmed in motions that might well be a dance. (And at break time, it all stops on a dime, bam! Only to start again at the same pace when time's up. --Because it's a process; only rarely does one mason work alone.) But it still moves one brick at a time, and past their normal speed, you cannot hurry it: one flaw can doom an entire wall.
Brunelleschi's masons were building a dome hundreds of feet up. The main route up and down was a complex winch he'd designed, and even by the standards of the Middle Ages, it was slow. At noon, bringing the whole crew down for lunch and hauling them back up afterwards took time, far too much time. You don't ask brickmasons to work without lunch -- especially not when you're the high-and-mighty builder at ground level and they're way up there, assembling a dome that will bring your reputation crashing down with it if it fails. (Also, they've got a lot of bricks up there -- oops, one less, look out below!)
While Brunelleschi was negotiating for more bricks from his supplier, he noticed the brickmakers would set out covered ceramic pots right by the kilns at the start of their day, and haul them back at noon, with the most delicious aroma wafting out when they lifted the lid and speared out chunks of meat. What -- the stories tell us he asked -- was that stuff? Oh, nothing much, really, they said -- they'd buy tough meat, cover it with wine and toss in some salt and a lot of black peppercorns, and let it bubble away for half the day or longer in the heat of kilns.
Brick holds heat. The builder was buying as much brick as the place could sell him, and they were shipping it still warm. What if they made more of that beef and wine stuff, and shipped it to building site with the bricks? He'd make 'em a deal on it....
And so (or so they say), every wagonload of bricks arrived at the cathedral with a hot pot of stew, got winched up to the dome, and he had a couple of shelters built up by the base of the dome where the crews could have their lunch. And you thought DoorDash was new!
It still isn't a complicated recipe, and the outcome is still pretty magical. Cracked peppercorns and Chianti, a little garlic and olive oil to brown the beef in before simmering, and two or three hours of simmering, mostly under a lid -- you would never predict the outcome, which is not especially peppery or wine-flavored, just tender and full of umami.
Tam and I had our peposo with steamed mixed vegetables and good crusty Italian bread, and agreed we'd have it again. It's not a difficult entree to prepare, and the result more than repays the small effort. Those brickmakers had the right idea.
Update
1 year ago
