The High-Standard Sentinel, on the other hand, continued to perform nicely. If there's a revolver equivalent of Ruger's Mk. II, this is probably it. Tam tells me the DA pull is not as smooth as a good Smith -- "There's a long pull and then a hitch, it gets crunchy and then it breaks." True but she's spoiled by her
Also brought the .38 Colt (S&W, about the same as the British .380/200 but a lighter projectile) revolver. Recoil feels "slappier" than the .32-20 but it is just as much fun. Sights are a little more friendly than the H&R but you'd never mistake them for a gun made in the last twenty years. I have got to find a Webley Mk. IV (or, I suppose, the Enfield) -- the heavier revolver would mitigate recoil and give me a double excuse for stockpiling the short .38. (Tam points out that "Victory Model" S&Ws in .380/200, Broad Arrow marked and all, are not uncommon. Would I break my no-Smiths rule for one of those? Probably; I've already decided the .22 wheelgun collection is going to have to eventually include a Colt and a S&W.)
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* Totally wrong. Totally mocked -- in a humorous way! -- for being wrong. It's a "pre-Model 18" so I didn't even have the number right. Is gun. Is shiny. Me like shiny. Bang-bang!
6 comments:
Bobbie,
Before you send the old IJ Owl Head off for a spruce up try this little “tune up” trick. Remove the grips from the unloaded gun (safety first ;-), place in an open container of kerosene located in a well ventilated area (yep, you know the drill) and allow to soak for several hours. Periodically slosh the gun around in the kerosene in order to dislodge any stubborn internal grime. Remove gun from the container and shake vigorously, if you have an air compressor or some canned air use it for fluid removal. Allow the gun to dry, run patch through barrel and cylinder chambers, use some snap caps and see if things are working any better. If so lightly lube crane, extractor and allow a small amount of lube to trickle into the action in order to lubricate it and you should be back in business. This might be a bit of a crude approach but it often as not will work rather well.
It works (with a lighter solvent - literally "lighter:" naptha) on old dollar pocketwatches, so I suspect it will work on this'n. Lemme find out if Shannon will work on it, first -- he's got a knack for these older firearms and I don't mind having a real gunsmith look it over. Sproing factor: very high.
I do have one of these webley's, but the cylinder has a fair amount of play even with the hammer back, so I'm not shooting it. :(
Joeseph - is that with the hammer fully back, and the trigger as well? My Mk IV doesn't really "lock" until then.
As for most .38 S&W out of said Webley, yeah, it's near-.22LR levels of recoil. I don't have any actual .38/200 to try, but from what I've read, they went to the lesser weight for the projectile because 200 grains was a bit stout.
Personally, I'm wondering what Bertie Wooster-rejects were complaining about it.
(Of course, I'm comfy with .45LC out of my Cimarron Model "P", too, and would dearly love to snag an original .455 Mk VI; might even go for a spare cylinder to shave for .45 ACP.)
(We will not speak of my desire for a Webley-Fosbery... [drool])
You know I have held one of those? It think it was 500 Guns (local store) who had it at a gun show; I walked up and was admiring it, and as soon as the owner heard me call it by its right name, he took it from the case and handed it to me: "Anyone who knows what this is should at least hold it." It was wonderful. Gimme that and a Mateba and I'd be on some high-numbered cloud!
Ms. Bobbie,
I have an old Gun Digest Book of Exploded Views that shows IJ Model 66 and Top Break revolvers. Neither of them look quite like yours. If you like, I'll E-mail, snail mail, or fax copies to you.
Yours,
Ed.
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